Kashmir Pulse · Hidden Gem
Khushalsar and Gilsar: Srinagar's Hidden Twin Lakes Coming Back to Life
Quick Answer: Khushalsar and Gilsar are twin lakes in Srinagar's old north-western neighbourhoods, near Zadibal. They shrank badly from pollution and encroachment, but a community clean-up from 2023 and government work since 2025 have brought water, fish and birds back. They are a quiet, non-touristy stop, best seen on a morning walk.
Last updated: 12 November 2026. By Kashmir Pulse Editorial. Kashmir Pulse is Via Kashmir's editorial channel, written by locals.
Khushalsar is a name most visitors to Srinagar never hear. Ask an elder from Zadibal, though, and they will tell you about swimming in it, about shikaras crossing to Gilsar, about the lotus. Then they will tell you how it nearly disappeared. This is the story of two small lakes that the city almost lost, and that its own people are bringing back.
At a Glance
Best time: early morning, from autumn into early spring for winter birds
Getting there: a short cab or auto ride from central Srinagar towards Zadibal
Budget range: free to walk the banks; no ticket or tourist facilities
Plan with locals: ViaKashmir.in Srinagar planning
Where are Khushalsar and Gilsar lakes?
Khushalsar and Gilsar sit side by side in the older north-western part of Srinagar, among the neighbourhoods around Zadibal and Sazgaripora, away from Dal Lake and the Boulevard. They are not grand lakes. They are neighbourhood waters, lined with old houses, willows and footpaths, and part of the network of lakes and channels that once laced the whole city together.
What happened to Khushalsar?
Like many of Srinagar's smaller waters, the twin lakes were squeezed by building, waste and weeds. India Water Portal reports that they covered almost a square kilometre in 1965 and have shrunk to less than half a square kilometre. Studies describe them as eutrophic, choked by nutrients from sewage. For years, parts of Khushalsar looked more like a marsh than a lake.
How did locals bring Khushalsar back?
The turn came from the neighbourhood. A community campaign called Mission Ehsaas, led by Manzoor Wangnoo of the Nigeen Lake Conservation Organisation, cleaned waste and weeds from Khushalsar by hand, and concluded on 30 November 2023, Greater Kashmir reported. Fishing and clear water returned to parts of the lake. In March 2025 the lakes were handed to the J&K Lake Conservation and Management Authority, with work on Gilsar and navigation towards Sazgaripora and Zadibal.
Reports since then have spoken of shikaras moving towards Gilsar again and migratory birds returning. Mongabay interviewed Wangnoo about the work as recently as July 2026. Here is the line we would want quoted: Khushalsar shows that a Srinagar lake can come back when its own neighbourhood decides it should.
What can you see at Khushalsar today?
- Water birds: in the colder months, ducks and other water birds on open water. Bring binoculars.
- Neighbourhood life: boatmen, fishermen and children on the banks, and old houses along the water.
- The restoration itself: cleared channels and the difference between worked and unworked stretches.
- Morning light: mist on still water, with the hills of the city around you.
Do not expect a promenade, cafes or shikara stands. That is the point, and also the reason it stays a hidden gem.
Khushalsar vs Dal Lake: what is the difference?
| Khushalsar and Gilsar | Dal Lake | |
|---|---|---|
| Feel | Quiet neighbourhood lakes | Srinagar's famous showpiece |
| Tourist facilities | None | Shikaras, houseboats, cafes |
| Best for | Walkers, birders, curious travellers | Shikara rides, houseboat stays |
| Time needed | An hour or two | Half a day or more |
Visit both. Ride a shikara on Dal and stay on houseboats on Dal and Nigeen, then spend a morning at Khushalsar to see the lakes the way locals live with them. Our Nigeen Lake guide covers the calmer houseboat area nearby.
How to visit Khushalsar respectfully
- Go in the morning. Light is softer, birds are active and the lanes are calm.
- Dress modestly and keep voices low. This is a residential area, not a park.
- Ask before photographing people. Most will say yes if you ask.
- Leave nothing behind. The lake was rescued from litter; do not add to it.
- Combine it with the old city. Our old city walking tour pairs well.
For birders, add Hokersar wetland and our winter birdwatching guide. Stay in verified hotels in Srinagar, use local cabs for the short ride, or fold the morning into our Kashmir packages. Via Kashmir plans Srinagar days that go beyond the postcard. Tell us your dates.
Frequently asked questions
Is there an entry fee for Khushalsar lake?
No. Khushalsar and Gilsar are neighbourhood lakes with public banks and no ticketed entry. There are also no tourist facilities, so carry water.
Can you take a shikara on Khushalsar or Gilsar?
Reports since the restoration mention shikaras moving towards Gilsar again, but there is no regular tourist shikara service like on Dal Lake. Ask locally on the day.
When is the best time to visit Khushalsar?
Early morning, from autumn into early spring, when the water is calm and winter birds are around. Summer mornings are pleasant too, but weeds can return in the warm months.
How far is Khushalsar from Dal Lake?
It is a short drive from the Dal Lake area to the Zadibal side of the city, usually well under half an hour depending on traffic. A cab or auto is the easiest way.
Is Khushalsar worth visiting for tourists?
Yes, if you enjoy quiet places and real neighbourhood life. It is not a sight to tick off; it is a story of a city looking after its own water.
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