Via Kashmir

Breakfast, old Srinagar style

Winter mornings start early in the old city, with lines at the harisa shops by 7 am.

Noon chai

Salted tea brewed dark with a pinch of baking soda, then turned pink with milk.

Girda from the kandur

A soft round bread about 20 cm across, baked on the wall of a clay oven. Bakers open around 6 am.

Seven breads to know

Lavasa, girda, kulcha, tsot, sheermal and bakarkhani: every bakery has its morning favourite.

Harisa, October to March

Lamb and wheat cooked overnight in copper pots, eaten hot with bread. Bohri Kadal and Rainawari are known for it.

Where to go

Khanyar, Bohri Kadal and the lanes around Jamia Masjid have the most old-style bakeries.

Plan it with a local Kashmir team

Verified stays, fixed cab fares and day-by-day plans from Srinagar.

See the Kashmir food trail Read the noon chai and bread guide More Kashmir stories

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Read the noon chai and bread guide