Khanqah-e-Moula on the Jhelum in Srinagar's old city: its history since 1395, the papier-mache interior, fires and rebuilds, how to visit respectfully, what is nearby, and how it compares with Jamia Masjid.
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Quick Answer: Khanqah-e-Moula is a wooden shrine and mosque on the right bank of the Jhelum in Srinagar's old city, between Fateh Kadal and Zaina Kadal. First built in 1395 by Sultan Sikandar in memory of Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani, it was rebuilt after fires in 1480 and 1731. Its interior is known for painted papier-mache work.
Last updated: 3 November 2026. By Kashmir Pulse Editorial. Kashmir Pulse is Via Kashmir's editorial channel, written by locals.
From the river, Khanqah-e-Moula looks like a pagoda that walked into a Kashmiri town: tiered roofs, a slim green spire, carved wooden walls and pigeons rising from the eaves. Inside, almost every surface is painted with floral papier-mache work. For many Kashmiris it is the most loved building in the old city, known simply as Shah-e-Hamdan.
This guide covers its history, what to look for, and how to visit with respect. For the great mosque a short drive away, see our Jamia Masjid Srinagar guide.
What is the history of Khanqah-e-Moula?
Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani, known in Kashmir as Shah-e-Hamdan, was a Persian scholar who came to Kashmir in the fourteenth century. Kashmiri tradition credits his followers with bringing crafts such as shawl weaving and papier-mache to the valley.
In 1395, Sultan Sikandar built the khanqah in his memory on the spot by the Jhelum associated with him. It is held to be the first khanqah in the Kashmir Valley. Like most timber buildings in old Srinagar, it burnt more than once: after a fire in 1480 Sultan Hassan Shah rebuilt and expanded it, and after another fire in 1731 the Mughal governor Abdul Barkat Khan rebuilt it again. In November 2017 a fire damaged the spire; it was contained, and a refurbished crown was installed in March 2018.
What should you look at in Khanqah-e-Moula?
- ✓The tiered roof and spire. Kashmiri mosques use stepped pyramidal roofs, not domes, topped by a slender spire. The building rises to about 38 metres.
- ✓The carved wooden walls. Logs laid in alternating layers with brick, a Kashmiri technique that copes with earthquakes and cold.
- ✓The papier-mache interior. Painted floral panels, pendants and ceilings in deep reds, greens and golds.
- ✓The riverside setting. Old wooden houses lean over the Jhelum, and the best view of the building is from the opposite bank or the bridges.
Locals often say the khanqah shows, on a single building, every Kashmiri craft that Shah-e-Hamdan's age is remembered for.
Related reading: Pathar Masjid, Srinagar: Nur Jahan's Stone Mosque on the Jhelum
How should visitors behave at Khanqah-e-Moula?
- Dress modestly with arms and legs covered; women should carry a scarf for their hair.
- Remove your shoes before entering, and keep your voice low.
- Visit between prayers, and avoid Friday midday and religious anniversaries, when it is very crowded.
- Rules on entry to the inner hall are set by the caretakers; ask at the door and follow their guidance, especially as a woman visitor or non-Muslim.
- Photograph the exterior freely, but ask before photographing inside or photographing people.
Local tip: cross to the far bank of the Jhelum for the classic view of the khanqah with its reflection, especially in early morning light.
Khanqah-e-Moula vs Jamia Masjid: what is the difference?
| Khanqah-e-Moula | Jamia Masjid | |
|---|---|---|
| Type | Shrine and mosque (khanqah) | The city's great congregational mosque |
| Built | 1395, rebuilt 1480 and 1731 | 1394 to 1402, present form 1672 |
| Look | Wooden, tiered roofs, ornate painted interior | Brick and deodar, 378 pillars, vast courtyard |
| Setting | On the Jhelum between Fateh Kadal and Zaina Kadal | Nowhatta, in a large walled compound |
| Visit time | 20 to 30 minutes | 45 to 60 minutes |
Both are about 2 km apart and easy to see in one morning.
Related reading: Nishat Bagh, Srinagar: The Twelve-Terrace Garden on Dal Lake
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What is near Khanqah-e-Moula?
- ✓Zaina Kadal copperware shops, a short walk away; see our shopping in Srinagar guide.
- ✓Pathar Masjid, the stone mosque across the river associated with Empress Nur Jahan.
- ✓Tomb of Budshah, the brick tomb of Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin's mother, near Zaina Kadal.
- ✓Jamia Masjid at Nowhatta.
- ✓Old city bakeries, for a girda and noon chai; and in winter, the harissa shops. See our harissa guide.
For the full route, see our Srinagar old city walking tour.
How do you get to Khanqah-e-Moula?
Khanqah-e-Moula is in Downtown Srinagar on the Jhelum, roughly 25 to 40 minutes by road from Dal Gate depending on traffic. Cabs and autos can drop you near Fateh Kadal or Zaina Kadal; the last stretch is through narrow lanes on foot. A driver who knows the old city saves a lot of time.
Want to see the old city properly? We plan the route, the timing and the driver.
Plan my old city morning →Via Kashmir builds Downtown heritage into Srinagar itineraries, then plans the rest: verified hotels, houseboats on Dal and Nigeen, Kashmir packages and local cabs. Tell us your dates and we will time your visit around prayers.
Frequently asked questions
Who built Khanqah-e-Moula?
Sultan Sikandar built it in 1395 in memory of Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani, known as Shah-e-Hamdan. It was rebuilt after fires in 1480 and 1731.
Can tourists visit Khanqah-e-Moula?
Yes, visitors are welcome outside prayer times if they dress modestly and remove their shoes. Entry to the inner hall is at the caretakers' discretion, so ask at the door.
Why is Khanqah-e-Moula famous?
It is one of the finest examples of Kashmiri wooden architecture and is known for its painted papier-mache interior. It is also held to be the first khanqah in the Kashmir Valley.
Where is Khanqah-e-Moula in Srinagar?
On the right bank of the Jhelum in the old city, between the Fateh Kadal and Zaina Kadal bridges, about 2 km from Jamia Masjid.
How long do I need at Khanqah-e-Moula?
About 20 to 30 minutes for the building, or a morning if you combine it with Jamia Masjid, the copper market and the old city bakeries.
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