What Chillai Kalan is, its 2026-27 dates (21 December to the end of January), how cold it gets, what it means for flights, roads, Gulmarg and Dal Lake, and how Kashmiris live through it, from people who do every year.
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Quick Answer: Chillai Kalan is the 40 coldest days of the Kashmir winter, from 21 December to about 29 or 30 January. It is followed by Chillai Khurd (20 days) and Chillai Bachha (10 days). Night temperatures in Srinagar usually fall below zero, snowfall is most likely, Dal Lake freezes at the edges on cold nights, and Gulmarg has its deepest snow.
Last updated: 3 November 2026. By Kashmir Pulse Editorial. Kashmir Pulse is Via Kashmir's editorial channel, written by locals.
Every Kashmiri knows the date 21 December. It is the first day of Chillai Kalan, the "major cold", and the whole valley prepares for it: walnut wood is stacked, dried vegetables come down from the attic, the kangri gets new charcoal and the harissa shops open before dawn. For travellers, Chillai Kalan is the heart of the snow season, and also the period when planning matters most.
This guide explains the dates, what the cold is really like, and what changes for flights, roads and sightseeing. For a broader view of the season see Kashmir in winter and Kashmir in December.
When is Chillai Kalan in 2026-27?
| Period | Meaning | Dates (2026-27) | Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chillai Kalan | The major cold | 21 December 2026 to about 29-30 January 2027 | 40 days |
| Chillai Khurd | The minor cold | About 30-31 January to 18-19 February 2027 | 20 days |
| Chillai Bachha | The baby cold | About 19-20 February to 1-2 March 2027 | 10 days |
The dates are fixed by tradition, not by the thermometer, so a mild December can still feel like Chillai Kalan has not started, and a cold spell in early December can feel like it already has. Sources differ by a day on where each period ends.
How cold does it get in Chillai Kalan?
In Srinagar, nights during Chillai Kalan usually drop to between minus 2 and minus 6 degrees Celsius, and in a strong cold wave they can go lower. Days are often clear and around 5 to 8 degrees, or grey and raw when it snows. Gulmarg and Pahalgam are colder still, with nights well below minus 5.
Two figures put it in context. On 21 December 2024, the first day of that year's Chillai Kalan, Srinagar recorded minus 8.5 degrees, its coldest December night since 1974. The city's all-time low is minus 14.4 degrees, recorded in 1893. Most years sit far from that record, but the cold is real, especially indoors in old houses.
A local line worth remembering: Chillai Kalan is not about one snowfall; it is 40 days in which the snow that falls tends to stay.
Related reading: Gulmarg in December 2026: Snow, Weather, Crowds and What to Book
What changes for travellers during Chillai Kalan?
Flights
Srinagar airport can see delays or cancellations on days of heavy snow or fog. Keep a buffer day before an onward flight home, book morning departures where you can, and avoid tight same-day connections in Delhi.
Roads
- ✓Jammu-Srinagar highway (NH-44): open most days, but heavy snow around Banihal and the Ramban stretch can shut it for a day or more. The Katra to Srinagar Vande Bharat is the usual alternative.
- ✓Mughal Road and Zojila: closed for winter, so Ladakh by road and the Poonch route are off the table.
- ✓Sonamarg: reachable through the Z-Morh tunnel in most weather, but check the day's advisory.
- ✓Gulmarg: after fresh snow, traffic above Tangmarg is often limited to 4x4 vehicles or cars with chains. Plan your local cabs accordingly.
Our winter flights and road closures guide covers the details and where to check live status.
Sightseeing
- ✓Gulmarg: the best snow of the year and the core of the ski season. See our Gulmarg ski season guide.
- ✓Dal Lake: the edges and quieter stretches freeze on the coldest nights; shikaras still run on open water. Read Dal Lake in winter.
- ✓Pahalgam: deep snow, very quiet, with most side valleys snowed in.
- ✓Mughal gardens: open but bare; beautiful after snowfall, empty of flowers.
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Chillai Kalan or February: which is better for a snow trip?
| Chillai Kalan (21 Dec to end Jan) | February (Chillai Khurd and Bachha) | |
|---|---|---|
| Snow in Srinagar | Most likely | Possible, melting faster |
| Gulmarg snow | Deep, reliable | Deepest base, often the best skiing |
| Cold | Harshest, long freezing nights | Still cold, days slowly warmer |
| Disruption risk | Highest for roads and flights | Lower, but snowstorms still happen |
| Crowds | Busy around Christmas and New Year | Quieter after mid-February |
If you want a white Srinagar and Dal Lake with ice, go in Chillai Kalan. If you want deep snow in Gulmarg with fewer disruptions, February is often the better bet.
Related reading: Kashmir New Year Trip: Gulmarg Snow, Bookings and Weather
How do Kashmiris live through Chillai Kalan?
- ✓Kangri and pheran: the clay fire pot carried under the long woollen cloak. See kangri and pheran.
- ✓Harissa for breakfast: slow-cooked mutton and rice, sold from before dawn in the old city. See our harissa guide.
- ✓Stored food: sun-dried vegetables (hokh syun), dried fish and pulses, put away in autumn, are cooked through the cold weeks.
- ✓The hamam: some older houses and many hotels have a heated stone-floored room, warmed by a fire beneath.
- ✓Kahwa, all day: see our Kashmiri kahwa guide.
How to plan a trip during Chillai Kalan
- Pick 5 to 7 nights and keep one buffer day before your flight home.
- Book rooms with proper heating, not just a fan heater. Ask whether heating is central, a bukhari (wood stove) or electric, and whether it runs overnight.
- Choose a houseboat only if it confirms heating and a winter-ready bathroom; many do, some close.
- Pre-book a 4x4 or a driver who carries chains for Gulmarg.
- Pack thermals, a down jacket, waterproof boots, gloves and a cap; buy a pheran locally.
- Check road and weather status each morning, and stay flexible on the Gulmarg and Pahalgam days.
Travelling in the snow season? We plan heated stays, 4x4 transfers and a buffer day.
Plan a winter trip →Via Kashmir plans winter trips around the cold, not against it: heated verified hotels, winter-ready houseboats on Dal and Nigeen, Kashmir packages with buffer days, and drivers who know the Tangmarg road in snow. Tell us your dates and we will tell you honestly what the weather allows.
Frequently asked questions
What are the dates of Chillai Kalan 2026?
Chillai Kalan runs from 21 December 2026 to about 29 or 30 January 2027. Chillai Khurd follows for 20 days, then Chillai Bachha for 10 days, ending in early March.
Is it safe to visit Kashmir during Chillai Kalan?
Yes, thousands of travellers visit every year. The main risks are cold, icy roads and weather delays, so book heated rooms, use experienced drivers and keep a buffer day before flights.
Does Dal Lake freeze in Chillai Kalan?
The edges and still stretches often freeze on the coldest nights, and in severe cold waves larger parts have frozen. Shikaras usually keep running on open water.
Will it snow in Srinagar during Chillai Kalan?
Snow in Srinagar is most likely during these 40 days, but it is not guaranteed every year. Gulmarg, Sonamarg and Pahalgam are far more reliable for snow.
What is the difference between Chillai Kalan, Chillai Khurd and Chillai Bachha?
They are the three stages of the Kashmiri winter: the 40-day major cold, the 20-day minor cold, and the 10-day baby cold. The cold slowly eases through each stage.
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