Sonmarg sits at 2,740m on the road to Leh and most visitors only stop for a pony ride. This guide covers what to do, where to stay, and what not to miss.
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Quick Answer: Sonmarg (Golden Meadow) is a 2,740m mountain valley 80km from Srinagar on the Srinagar-Leh highway. The Thajiwas Glacier is a 2km walk or pony ride from the main meadow. Most visitors do Sonmarg as a day trip, but overnight stays with camping or guesthouse accommodation are possible and far more rewarding.
At a Glance | Altitude: 2,740m. Distance from Srinagar: 80km, 2.5-3 hours. Glacier walk: 2km from parking, 45 mins each way on foot. Pony to glacier: Rs 400-600 return. Best months: May to October. Drones: banned in the Sonmarg area. Plan your visit via viakashmir.in.
Sonmarg means "Golden Meadow" in Kashmiri - named for the saffron-yellow wildflowers that blanket the valley in late summer. Most travellers speed through on the way to Leh, stopping for 90 minutes, a pony ride, and a maggi at one of the dhabas. That is a waste of a remarkable place. The Thajiwas Glacier feeds the Sindh river that runs through the valley. The Gadsar and Vishansar trekking routes - two of the most demanding in the region - start from here. And in late June, when the snow bridges are still intact and the meadow is turning green, Sonmarg is as good as anywhere in the Himalaya. Kashmir Pulse is Via Kashmir's editorial channel written by locals. For Sonmarg day trips or overnight packages from Srinagar, check viakashmir.in.
How do you reach Thajiwas Glacier and is it worth the effort?
Thajiwas Glacier sits about 2km from the main Sonmarg meadow and about 200m higher. On foot, the walk takes 40-50 minutes each way on a clear path. Ponies are available at the meadow entrance for Rs 400-600 return, and the pony handlers are persistent but not aggressive - a polite no is sufficient. The glacier itself is a legitimate glacier tongue descending from the Thajiwas Valley above, though it has been retreating noticeably over the past decade. In May and early June, the glacier extends quite far down and there is usually a snow bridge you can walk across. By September, the accessible glacier face has receded. Worth it? If you are at Sonmarg, yes - it is an easy extension and the valley leading to the glacier is beautiful even without reaching the ice. Do not pay anyone for "glacier entry" - there is no formal entry fee.
What is Zero Point and should I visit it?
Zero Point is the snowfield just past the Zoji La summit, about 31 km (1.5-2 hours) beyond Sonmarg at roughly 3,500 m, in Ladakh's Kargil district. It can only be reached while the Zoji La road is open, roughly May to October, and the road can close at short notice in bad weather. Snow is deepest from late May to late June, when the area genuinely looks dramatic; by August most of it has usually melted, which disappoints visitors expecting a snowfield. The trip is usually done in a Sonmarg union taxi, around Rs 4,500-5,000 per cab for the return trip. See our Zero Point guide for the full details.
Related reading: Aru Valley, Betaab Valley & Chandanwari: The Pahalgam Day-Trip Trio
Sonmarg vs Gulmarg for a day trip from Srinagar - which is better?
- ✓Distance from Srinagar: Gulmarg is 56km (1.5 hours). Sonmarg is 80km (2.5 hours). Gulmarg is closer.
- ✓Crowds: Gulmarg is busier in summer due to the meadow cable car. Sonmarg feels slightly more open on the meadow.
- ✓Activities: Gulmarg has the Gondola cable car, golf course, horse riding. Sonmarg has glacier walk, Zero Point (in season), trekking access.
- ✓Scenery: Both are exceptional. Sonmarg has the Sindh River running through the meadow and a backdrop of snow peaks that many people find more dramatic than Gulmarg.
- ✓Food and facilities: Gulmarg has more cafes, restaurants, and hotels. Sonmarg has a more limited selection of dhabas and guesthouses.
- ✓Winter access: Gulmarg is fully operational in winter for skiing. Sonmarg town has been reachable all year since the Z-Morh (Sonamarg) tunnel opened in January 2025, but Thajiwas Glacier and the road beyond to Zoji La and Zero Point stay closed in winter.
- ✓Verdict: For families and first-timers, Gulmarg offers more organised activities. For travellers who want something less commercialised with better trekking access, Sonmarg.
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Frequently asked questions about Sonmarg
Is Sonmarg open in winter?
No. Sonmarg is typically cut off by snowfall from November through late April. The Srinagar-Leh highway through Sonmarg closes when Zoji La Pass becomes impassable, usually in November. It reopens in May after Army snowploughs clear the route. During this period, Sonmarg town is occupied only by a handful of army posts. Do not attempt to drive to Sonmarg after October unless you have confirmed with the J&K Traffic Police that the road is open.
How long does the drive from Srinagar take?
Allow 2.5 to 3 hours from central Srinagar under normal conditions. The road via Manigam and Gagangir is scenic but has sections under periodic repair. Early morning departures (7am) avoid any truck traffic building up on the highway. If you are combining Sonmarg with a Manasbal Lake stop or a visit to Wular Lake en route, add another hour. Most Srinagar hotels can arrange a day-trip cab for Rs 2,500-3,500 for Sonmarg, or book a fixed-rate cab through viakashmir.in.
Is Thajiwas Glacier worth visiting?
Yes, particularly if you visit between May and July when the glacier is most accessible. The walk itself through the Thajiwas Valley is genuinely beautiful even without reaching ice - the stream, the wildflowers by July, and the mountain walls closing in overhead make it worthwhile. In August and September, the accessible glacier is reduced and some visitors feel underwhelmed. If you are visiting in August, the pony ride gives you a higher vantage point to see the remaining ice face.
Can I camp overnight at Sonmarg?
Yes. There are organised camping operators on the Sonmarg meadow running tent accommodations from June to September. Expect to pay Rs 1,500-3,000 per person per night including meals in a Swiss tent or dome tent setup. The experience of waking up at 2,740m with the Sindh River running below you and snow peaks visible at sunrise is genuinely one of the better budget travel experiences in Kashmir. The camps do not require advance booking in early June but fill up during July and August school holiday weekends.
What is Zero Point at Sonmarg?
Zero Point is the local name for the snowfield on the far side of the Zoji La pass, about 31 km beyond Sonmarg town. It is open to visitors only while the Zoji La road is open, roughly May to October. It is famous as a snowfield you can reach by taxi, so families who do not trek can still experience deep mountain snow. Not to be confused with Zero Point in Sikkim - this is a different place entirely.
Sonmarg is the starting point of two of Kashmir's most remote backcountry treks - the Gadsar and Vishansar Lakes routes. Both cross passes above 4,200m. Of the roughly 800,000 visitors Sonmarg receives each year, fewer than 500 begin these treks. The valley's greatest experiences are almost entirely untouched.
Via Kashmir organises Sonmarg day trips and overnight glacier camp packages from Srinagar with pickup from your hotel or houseboat.
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